A swim from the rocks before breakfast

Below the basilica, past the last of the fishing boats, the rocks flatten into ledges that step down into deep, clear water. Before eight the town is quiet, the sea is glass and the light comes straight down the coast.

There is nowhere to change and no lifeguard, so wear your costume under your clothes and swim close to the rocks. Take the small towel from your room; we leave it on the hook by the door for exactly this.

Six minutes down, six back, and breakfast is served until half past ten.