Focaccia at seven, from the bakery on the piazza

Turn left out of the door and follow the smell. The bakery on the piazza pulls its first trays of focaccia genovese a little after seven, and the best of it is gone by eight. Ask for a piece by weight, still warm, salted and shining with oil.

Eat it standing at the counter or on the steps outside, the way everyone else does. A square costs a couple of euro. Dip it in your cappuccino if you like; nobody will look twice.

Four minutes back up the hill, and breakfast is still being served when you return.